10th Century Valisvara Temple at Thiruvaliswaram: Hidden Chola Gem in the Tirunelveli District of Tamil Nadu
This temple is considered to be one of the best examples of Chola architecture. This temple was constructed in the early part of the 10th century by Raja Raja Chola I. Even though, it was built by the Cholas, it stands in the land of the Pandyas. It is a centrally protected monument under the control of the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) since 1919. It is home to one of the three Swayambhu lingams along the Gadananathi river. The other two being the Kailasanathar temple at Brahmadesam and the Sivasailanathar Paramakalyani temple at Sivasailam. I am talking about the Valiswara temple located by the banks of the Gadananathi river at Thiruvaleeswaram in the Tirunelveli district of Tamil Nadu.
The architecture of the Valiswara temple is mainly Chola, but you can see a bit of Chola-Pandya and Pandya at different places in the temple. The main deity is Lord Shiva and he is depicted sitting in a sukhasana pose. The vimana has an idol of Lord Shiva as Ardhanareeswara, whose artistic style resembles those of Pallava temples in Panamalai and Kanchipuram. The Valiswara temple is also home to a unique standing statue of Lord Ganesha. The temple has two sanctums, both facing east. One is dedicated to Lord Shiva as Valisvara and the other is dedicated to goddess Parvati as Goddess Soundarya Nayaki. Both sanctums have Nandi statues, flag staffs and Bali peetha in front of them.
The prakara of the Shiva shrine has the idols of Surya, Adhikara Nandi, Sapta Matas, Surya deva and Subramanya. The maha mantapa inside the shrine of Shiva has many circular shaped and Yali pillars. There are two small separate shrines of Ganesha and Shanmugha with his consorts. The vimana has a lot of beautiful sculptures such as Bhoota ganas, Rishaba Vahana, Gaja Samhara Murti, Dakshinamoorthi, Ardha Nareeswara, Natarajar, etc.
The temple campus is full of beautiful plants and trees that attract a lot of birds and butterflies, especially peacocks.
On a section near the Bali peetha, etching recording the triumphs grabbed by a corps of the Chola equipped power called Munru kai Mahasenai. It further says that the haven of Tiruvaliswaram, its treasury and the temple labourers were put under the protection of this unit of the equipped power. It is also believed that this Chola army used to hide all the wealth from their conquests inside this temple campus and this is one of the main reasons for ASI to build a large wall and protect this temple campus from the outside elements as such treasure could be hidden under the temple even today.
This offbeat hidden Chola gem of a temple is a must-visit for all temple lovers. Access is a bit difficult, but its rustic and remote location, its rich history and beautiful campus more than make up for this lack of access. I recommend this temple with many thumbs up.
Famous festivals of this temple:
Maha Shivaratri and Thiruvathirai are major annual festivals celebrated here. Every month, the two Pradosham days hold particular significance at this temple.
How to reach there:
The nearest railway and bus station is Ambasamudram, located about 5 kilometers away. From Ambasamudram, take the road leading towards Gowthamapuri and Brahmadesam. From Brahmadesam, take the road leading towards Nalayarithu Amman temple and take a right at the temple and this will take you to the Valiswara temple campus.
The nearest airport is Tuticorin, located about 82 kms away.
Best season to visit:
The Valisvara temple at Thiruvaliswaram is open all year round. However, it can get quite warm during the summer months between March and June. Even during the other months, it is best to visit the temple in the early hours of the morning so that you can walk barefoot on the granite stone floor of the temple.
Temple timings:
The Valisvara temple doesn’t get a lot of regular visitors. Hence, the temple priest usually visits at his convenience. He spends about 30 minutes in the morning and 30 minutes in the evening. The timings change depending on his schedule. It is best to call the temple priest a day in advance and find out the temple timings. The temple priest’s name is ‘Sankar Pattar’ and his phone number is +91 97896 42742. If you cannot get through his phone, his home is next to the Kailasanathar temple at Brahmadesam. It is best to check with locals regarding directions to his house.
Where to stay:
The nearest place with decent hotels would be Ambasamudram. Hotel Ambai Grand is the best option here.
If you wish for luxury, I would recommend trying the hotels at Tirunelveli – GRT Regency, Janakiram and/or Aryas.
If you wish to stay in slightly cooler weather, you should try the resorts in and around Courtallam.
If you wish to stay in pristine nature, I would recommend that you stay at the forest rest houses in Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve.
If you care for a true rustic experience, I would recommend that you stay at any of the home stays or guest houses in Kallidakurichi village agraharam.
Where to eat:
You can find some basic snacks with tea/coffee in the village of Brahmadesam or Mannarkoil. For elaborate food options, I would recommend that you head either to Hotel Ramanas or Hotel Gowri Shankar at Ambasamudram. Both of them serve delicious vegetarian tiffin items and meals at reasonable prices.
Other nearby tourist attractions:
1) 10th century Kailasanathar temple at Brahmadesam
2) Mannarkoil Rajagopalaswamy temple: magnificent 10th century temple with a ashtanga vimana
3) 1000 year old Papanasanathar temple at Papanasam: Where you can wash all your sins away
4) Sivasailam temple: 1000 year old temple surrounded by the lush mountains of the Western Ghats
5) Sivasailam: One of the wettest places during the North East Monsoon in India
6) Kallidaikurichi: The village of the Saaral season
7) Iruttu Kadai Halwa: Icon of Tirunelveli
8) Nellaiappar Temple: A 7th century cosmic dance wonder
9) Pattamadai Pai: GI Tagged beautiful handwoven mats from a tiny Tamil Nadu village
10) Thamirabharani river delta: A motorcycle route full of rustic gorgeousness
11) Karaiyar dam: Offbeat wildlife and nature holiday destination in India’s deep south
12) The hidden gem called Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve
13) Courtallam: The herbal bath holiday destination of Tamil Nadu
14) Tiruchendur Murugan Temple: Sea Shore Magic
15) Kallidaikurichi to Manimuthar Dam: A top scenic and rustic cycling route
16) Garuda Sevai from the agraharams of Kallidaikurichi
17) The festival of Karthigai Deepam from a traditional Tamil Nadu village
18) Cycling through the backyards of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve
19) 13th century Kasi Visvanathar temple at Tenkasi
20) Punalur Suspension bridge: Historical gem of Kerala
21) Lesser known Kerala Mountain Railways: Treat for nature lovers
22) Thenmala forest and Palaruvi Falls: Offbeat nature and wildlife getaway
23) Oothu: The quaint little hill station of Tamil Nadu
24) Kakkachi: The highest point inside Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve
25) Festival of Thiruvathirai from a traditional Tamil Nadu village
26) Scenic Iron Bridge of Kalakad Mundanthurai Tiger Reserve: Pristine nature overloaded
27) Manimuthar Falls: The herbal waterfall inside a tiger reserve
28) Vintage Pathimoonu Kannara Bridge: Colonial charm of the Indian railways
29) Thenmala Dam: A monsoon pit stop
30) The exotic tropical fruit shops of Puliyarai
31) Kallidaikurichi Adi Varaha Temple Chariot Festival: Grand Cultural Spectacle in Rural Tamil Nadu
32) Kallidaikurichi Anaicut: Gorgeous picnic spot nestled in the lap of nature
33) Agastyar Falls: A gorgeous waterfall on the Thamirabharani river
34) Manjolai: The offbeat hill station of Tamil Nadu
35) Kudrevetty: The remote and windy hill station of Tamil Nadu
36) Nalumukku: The wettest place of India during the North East Monsoon
